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Sailing types who moor in the harbours are easy to spot: they're the only ones not wearing Breton sailor tops.We wander some more. Join Club. I know because I chose the fish myself, this morning, at the market.

Route planen +33 1 60 20 02 04. Toiras, the island's governor after whom our hotel is named, holed up in the citadel of Saint-Martin-de-Ré (built by Cardinal Richelieu) and valiantly withstood the siege for months, until Buckingham gave up and went home.

Page publique du Club Audi Ile De France. Great spot for a drink, too.

But invaded it was, and, in 1627, almost lost to the Duke of Buckingham and his English troops. As you cross the bridge that arches over the Atlantic from France to the Ile de Ré, the air changes, becomes clearer, brighter, luminous.

By now we are famished, and order Following the sea, we ride along the fortified walls of Saint-Martin-de-Ré, 350 years old.

In July and August they occupy every bed on the island: couples; middle-class, mainly French families with well-behaved children; affluent Parisians with second homes.

Win an idyllic break in a hideaway overlooking the Cornish coastThe must-visit cafés in France according to our editorsLa Bastide des Gordes hotel review: A glamorous village perchLe Refuge de Solaise: contemporary Alpine chic in France’s highest hotelWhere our editors go for winter holidays in the sun Wir arbeiten daran, den Fehler so bald wie möglich zu beheben. 2.066 Personen haben das abonniert.

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There's no terrain to speak of, thankfully, but even the slight incline to Ars is a lovely town: another photogenic harbour, and a boatyard where rusty hulls, propped up on stands, loom over us, their edges sharp against the deep-blue sky.

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